Friday, March 20, 2009

Water Heater By-Pass

The original way the water heater was hooked up. The "blue" 15 mm pipe connection in the center is the cold water inlet. A tee in the cold water line also sent cold water to the tempering valve on the upper left side. The tempering valve blends the very hot water in the tank with cold water. You can then near set the tempered water to around 110 degree so nobody burns themselves and also extends the actual amount of hot water available for use.
But to winterize this, you either have to fill the entire hot water heater with 6 gallons of antifreeze - or - disconnect to cold water pipe and connect it to the hot water pipe.
To me, that's cumbersome and ridiculous.
The original tempering valve connection. You can sea I also added a hose from the tank drain valve, down and directly into the bilge. It's brownish / gray in this picture, but I've since then put a clear hose on the tank drain to witness draining. This prevents everything from getting wet when you drain the tank.

The original cold water connection.
In order to install what they call the "by-pass kit", you have to arrange for some additional pipe nipples to fit your application. A "check valve" comes with the kit which gets installed on the hot water outlet side of the water heater, just before the new "tee" for the by-pass.
Now...... to winterize, (after you drain the tank) you just have to rotate the by-pass valve in the cold water supply line to the by-pass position. Remember to turn it back and fill up the tank before you start back up in the spring!

A view of the new water heater "by-pass kit" and the replaced Macerator Vacuum Pump.

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